Ask The Editors
SecondsOut.com Logo - click here to go back to the home page
News divider Features divider Schedules & Results divider Rankings and Stats divider Community My Profile
Login

SHOP | RADIO | TV

COLUMNS  |  TV  |  RADIO  |  GALLERY  |  AWARDS  |  OLYMPICS  |  RINGSIDE & TRAINING  |  LEGENDS  |  WRITE 4 US

20 AUGUST 2014

 




Related Sections






Thomas Hauser




Anthony Catanzaro and Chris Santos




By Thomas Hauser

When Paulie Malignaggi steps into the ring to face Ricky Hatton on November 22nd, two fans with unique perspectives will be at ringside. Anthony Catanzaro and Chris Santos are part owners of restaurants that are as different as the styles of the fighters they’ll be watching in Las Vegas. But they share a passion for the sweet science and for Paulie.

Catanzaro was born in the Bensonhurst section of Brooklyn in 1968, one year after his parents emigrated from Sicily to the United States. “My father’s side of the family was all fisherman,” he says. “My father decided to stay on land and repair the boats.” Anthony is fluent in English, Italian, and Spanish, but notes, “When I was growing up, the first language in our neighborhood was a Sicilian dialect of Italian. That’s what I heard at home and on the streets.”

“Soccer was my first passion,” Catanzaro continues. “At New Utrecht High School, I was co-captain of the soccer team. When I was sixteen, I started playing semi-pro and got paid fifty dollars a game. I thought I was rich. Eventually, I made it to $150 a game, but that came with a lot injuries so I retired.”

In 1993, Catanzaro began work as a sales assistant for Georgio Armani. “People like Robert DeNiro, Pat Riley, and Eric Clapton came in from time to time,” he remembers. “Once, Sigourney Weaver undressed in front of me. That was a treat.”

But there was a lot he didn’t like about the job, including the fact that he was bored stiff. So he started working as a bartender in an Italian restaurant (“I’m a people person, so I got along well with everyone at the bar; I was a good bartender”). Then he managed a restaurant in Brooklyn.

In 2001, Anthony was offered a partnership in a pizzeria in Manhattan. He’s still part-owner of Portobello’s at 83 Murray Street. He and his wife (a substance-abuse therapist) live in the Dyker Heights section of Brooklyn with their six-year-old son, Joseph.

Catanzaro and Malignaggi first crossed paths in 1997, when Anthony was sparring with a soccer teammate named Filippo Giuffre at Gleason’s Gym. “We sparred three times,” Anthony remembers. “We wore headgear and used 16-ounce gloves. Each time, Filippo beat the shit out of me. There were no knockdowns, but I didn’t enjoy it. Three minutes can be an eternity.”

“After one of our sparring sessions,” Anthony continues, “Filippo and I were speaking Sicilian, and this skinny malnourished-looking kid who was skipping rope overheard us and joined the conversation. He was sixteen years old, hadn’t had an amateur fight yet. He told us that someday he was going to be a champion. I said to Filippo, ‘Yeah; champion of the neighborhood.’ But we liked him. We gave him a ride home. And the whole way home, he didn’t shut up. That was Paulie.”

Malignaggi, for his part, looks back on that day and says, “I remember it well. I didn’t get many rides home in those days.”

A decade later, Paulie and Anthony are like family to one another. Catanzaro advises Malignaggi on business matters, helps schedule many of his media appearances, and watches his back in general. He has been to all but four of Paulie’s twenty-six fights. And if a fight is anywhere in the New York metropolitan area, Anthony is there after the weigh-in with replenishment from Portobello’s.

“It’s hard to put into words how I feel about Paulie,” Catanzaro says. “To see him progress over the past ten years from being a kid in the neighborhood to a mature world-class fighter means so much to me. The Cotto fight [which Malignaggi lost] was one of the most difficult times in my life, but I was very proud of Paulie that night. He got cut by a head butt in the first round and was dropped in the second. Then bones in his face started getting broken. A lot of guys would have said, ‘I’m getting paid anyway’ and called it a night. But Paulie stayed in there and won four or five rounds depending on how you scored it. And to come back from that, to beat Lovemore N’dou and become a world champion just one year later; that was a magical night for me. It was the culmination of every step run, every punch taken, every injury overcome, every word spouted. I know how much winning the championship meant to Paulie. It was a great moment in my life.”

“I love fighters,” Catanzaro continues. “The courage and discipline they show when their body tells them they can’t survive the pain and their mind overrides that and forces them to fight on; that’s amazing to me. I go to work and the worst thing that can happen to me is I get burned making a pizza. A fighter gets in the ring, and anyone who understands boxing knows what can happen to him. There are no bums in a boxing ring. There are unskilled fighters who shouldn’t be there. But any man who steps into a boxing ring is a better man than I am.”

Chris Santos was born in Bristol, Rhode Island, in 1971. His father was an electrician. His mother was a registered nurse, who earned a masters degree and advised hospitals on risk management.

“My father was a very good athlete at the high school level,” Santos says. “That was a source of pride for him. He had a fighting spirit as an athlete, but he never applied it to other aspects of his life. He and my mother were separated and, as he grew older, he became kind of a hermit. He was estranged from his children. He lived alone and didn’t go out. Sometimes he wouldn’t even answer the phone. The last few years, I started to reconnect with him. He died two years ago, and I live my life as a direct result of the way he didn’t. His life and death made me realize that we don’t have a lot of time. It’s one of the reasons I’m driven in everything I do and get angry when I see people squander their opportunities and talents.”

Santos’s introduction to the culinary industry was washing pots in a French restaurant. He was thirteen years old. “I fell in love with the chaos of it all,” Chris recalls. “The chef was like a rock star to me. He flirted with the pretty waitresses. People were always telling him how good the food was. From that time on, I wanted to be either a professional fighter, a rock star [he played drums for twenty years], or a chef. My mother won that argument, so I went to Johnson and Wales [the largest culinary institute in the country].”

At culinary school, Santos completed a two-year associate-degree program and a two-year program in hospitality management. Prior to that, cooking had been a means to an end; to make money so he could buy clothes or a car. At Johnson and Wales, he got serious about it.

Santos graduated in 1993, came to New York, and took a job at Time Café. Ten months later, he was the executive chef. A series of positions at other restaurants followed. As part of that journey, he met Richard Wolf (a creator and co-owner of Tao) and Peter Kane (the owner of Happy Landing).

In due course, Wolf and Kane opened a bar called Double Happiness in Chinatown. “There was a retail space above the bar,” Chris recalls. “Peter and I opened a small restaurant there called Wyanoka. That was my purest food experience ever because it was so small. We served new American cuisine, and I could do everything in the kitchen myself because the restaurant had only twenty-seven seats.”

Then 9/11 devastated Wyanoka’s business. The restaurant closed four months later. Still, Santos had gotten enormous accolades as its chef and was a sought-after free agent. For a while, he worked as executive chef at Suba (modern Spanish cuisine). It was a successful “foodie” destination. But Chris had enjoyed being his own boss at Wyanoka and no longer had that freedom. For a while, he thought about “leaving food” altogether. Then, in 2003, he reconnected with Wolf and Kane, and the three of them asked each other, “Why haven’t we opened a restaurant together?”

The Stanton Social (at 99 Stanton Street in Manhattan) followed.

Meanwhile, Santos is a boxing junkie. “The three great passions in my life,” he says, “are cooking, music, and boxing. I go to every fight card in Manhattan and maybe six shows a year in Las Vegas and Atlantic City. I’m a sucker; I buy every pay-per-view fight. When I’m doing something boxing-related, even if it’s just watching a fight on television, it blocks everything else out for me.”

Santos also practices what he preaches. For the past ten years, he has worked out at Gleason’s. “It’s not boxerobics,” he explains. “I train two days a week with Martin Gonzalez [who trains Edgar Santana] and twice a week with Melissa Hernandez. I train like a fighter; I spar several times a month. The past few years, I’ve taken boxing very seriously. Probably, I should have been a fighter. I think I would have been a good one. It makes me crazy that I’m thirty-seven years old and found that talent in me and it’s too late. But I’m not about to turn pro at thirty-seven. That sort of thing doesn’t work out well.”

Santos and Malignaggi met five years ago at Gleason’s. “I used to see him all the time in the gym,” Paulie remembers. “One day, we started talking and I liked him. Chris is a big boxing fan; he knows his stuff.”

Santos, for his part, says, “Like everyone else, I like knockouts. But I love the nuances and subtleties of boxing. Pernell Whitaker, Roy Jones Jr, Floyd Mayweather Jr; those guys are magic. That’s one of the reasons I like watching Paulie. You better believe, I’ll be in Las Vegas when he fights Ricky Hatton.”

Meanwhile, Portobello’s and The Stanton Social are as different as a good club fight and a glitzy main event on HBO.

Portobello’s has a service counter up front, a linoleum tile floor, and formica-topped tables. It’s most distinctive decorating touch is “Paulie’s wall” – a montage of newspaper clippings and photos that honor Malignaggi.

The restaurant is open sixty-five hours a week (Monday through Saturday). Catanzaro works fifty to sixty of them. Sunday is his day of rest. “I would never dare to compare what I do with what a fighter does,” Anthony says. “But when I leave Portobello’s at night, there are times when I feel like I’ve been in a fight.” A second Portobello’s opened recently at 61 West Broadway.

The Portobello’s at 83 Murray Street attracts five hundred walk-in customers each day. “We don’t get many tourists,” Catanzaro acknowledges. “It’s the same customers day after day. Stuyvesant high school is three blocks away. That helps. And some of Paulie’s fans come here on a regular basis.”

“Most of our business is at the front counter,” Anthony continues. “Pizza, calzone, cannoli. And we have a pretty good delivery business. On an average day, we sell fifty whole pies and another 150 pies in slices. We’re the official caterers for the City of New York 311 Unit. And there are other things that come along like being the official pizzeria for the Kids Festival portion of the Tribeca Film Festival. We were also the official pizzeria for Fleet Week in 2005 and sold 400 pies a day. That was stressful. You try delivering a hundred pizzas an hour.”

Portobello’s also supplies the on-site food for several New York area promoters; most notably Lou DiBella’s Broadway Boxing series at the Manhattan Center. For a 7:00 PM show, Catanzaro starts cooking at three in the afternoon and arrives at the arena around five o’clock. For a crowd of one thousand, he’ll bring ten trays of food (pasta, meatballs, chicken parmesan, sausage and peppers), fifty hero breads, and a hundred cannoli.

“The fans are happy we’re there,” Anthony says. “It means they can eat something besides a pretzel and a dried up hot dog. If we sell out, after paying the driver and staff and giving the house its cut, we make only a couple of hundred dollars. But the exposure is good. It gets our menus and business cards out there, and sometimes we get other catering jobs from it.”

The Stanton Social occupies a different region in the New York food chain. It has a trendy website (www.thestantonsocial.com) and evokes phrases like “hot spot . . . A-list celebrities . . . glitzy, trendy, and bustling.” Each dish on the menu is created by Santos and composed like a traditional appetizer or entrée, but the portions are all appetizer size.

Writing in the New York Times, food critic Frank Bruni proclaimed, “Chris Santos has an imagination and a talent that shine. The Stanton Social is the restaurant as playlist, a compendium of highlights with no allegiance to a single source of inspiration. It doesn’t dawdle anywhere or dwell on anything. It bolts to Mexico to assemble a few tacos; then zips to Japan, wok-charred edamame in its sights. It touches down in Thailand to infuse a broth below steamed clams with lemongrass; then pivots to New England to scratch an itch for lobster rolls. There are no designated appetizers or entrees and no arc to a meal. Everything should be shared. Dishes don’t arrive in neatly grouped batches or at neatly timed intervals. They come steadily and continuously throughout the meal, an orgy of hors d’oeuvres.”

In the restaurant business, volume equals success. Santos ticks off some numbers.

“Three thousand people eat here each week, with another fifteen hundred to two thousand coming in for drinks only. We do five hundred dinner reservations on a Saturday night. I create every dish, oversee the production of the food, and inspect every plate before it leaves the kitchen. I have forty people in the kitchen; fifteen to eighteen on each shift. There are fifty people up-front; servers, bartenders, hostesses, bus-boys, food runners, coat-check girls, eighteen to twenty per shift. The first guys come in at 6:00 AM. The last ones leave at 4:00 AM. Friday and Saturday are the busiest nights. On those nights, we serve a full menu from 5:00 PM to 3:00 AM. The average plate is fourteen dollars and we do US$8,500,000 in sales annually. My payroll is $42,000 a week for staff; $30,000 a week for food supplies; $20,000 for wine and liquor. There’s rent, linens, and more. If we’re lucky, there’s a twenty percent profit margin.”

Santos works at least sixty hours a week. “It used to be more,” he says. “I work nights; I work weekends. I work when everyone else is out having a good time. I sleep four hours a night and don’t get a lot of time off, but I’m okay with that. The whole concept of cooking for a living; you have to be different to want to do it. The keys are creativity, passion, consistency, and attention to detail. It’s a crazy life. It takes a long time to get to the big money, and most people never make it. Sort of like boxing.”

Chris smiles. “There are times when it seems like everything is a boxing analogy to me. I typically work twelve-hour days. And after six hours, I tell myself, ‘Six more rounds to go.’”

Santos recently signed a television deal. A cookbook and more restaurants seem like an inevitable part of his future. This summer, he spent eleven weeks in Las Vegas, working a hundred hours a week, helping Richard Wolf and Marc Packer launch Lavo (a Mediterranean restaurant in The Palazzo).

Through it all, Chris’s respect for, and obsession with, the culinary arts is clear. When asked who he would invite to The Stanton Social if he could host any historical figure, his choice is Francois Vatel; a famed French chef who oversaw a banquet for two hundred people held in honor of Louis XIV in April 1671. When an expected consignment of fish was not delivered, Vatel was so distraught at the thought of not feeding the king properly that he went to his room, penned a suicide note ("The shame is too much to bear”), and stabbed himself to death. Minutes later, the fish arrived.

“I couldn’t have said this when I was younger,” Santos acknowledges, “but right now, I know who I am. I know what I do, why I do it, and where I’m going. I’m a craftsman and it means a lot to me when people appreciate my craft. I love my life. I’m my own boss. But my end game is about boxing. I hope to retire from the food business when I’m fifty and do something hands-on in boxing like refereeing or judging or training a fighter. And I know that I can’t date a girl who won’t go to the fights with me.”

So there you are: Anthony Catanzaro and Chris Santos; Portobello’s and The Stanton Social. Let’s give the final word to noted food critic, Paulie Malignaggi.

“Both guys are good friends to me,” Paulie says. “They understand fighters; they respect fighters. If I ate their food all the time, I’d never make weight. The things I eat there; I wish I had three stomachs.”

“The Stanton Social is more upscale and trendy,” Paulie continues. “If you wanted to impress a date, you’d bring her there before you brought her to Portobello’s. But Portobello’s has a special place in my heart because of Anthony. Anthony is like a big brother to me. There are so many things he helps me with; everything from small sponsorships to making sure that I have the right kind of car insurance. He doesn’t get paid; he does it out of kindness. He cares about me for myself; not just because I’m a fighter. And believe me; I appreciate it.”

“Also,” Paulie says in closing, “no matter how good the food is at The Stanton Social – and it’s great – the pizza is better at Portobello’s.”

* * *

And speaking of Paulie Malignaggi --

Here’s Paulie’s list of “Top Ten Reasons Why I Won’t Wear Hair Extensions Into the Ring on November 22nd.”

(10) It’s really stupid.

(9) It’s really stupid.

(8) They didn’t look good.

(7) Right now, my hair isn’t long enough to extend.

(6) It called attention to the fact that my hairline is receding.

(5) Ricky Hatton will make some crack about it and everyone will laugh at me.

(4) Danny Milano gives lousy haircuts during the middle of a fight.

(3) People compared my hair with Don King’s. And anything that puts my name in the same sentence as Don King’s is bad.

(2) Lou DiBella says he’ll break my neck if I do it again. And he means it.

(1) I want to be able to see what I’m doing so I can knock Ricky Hatton out.

* * *

A NOTE ON THE AMERICAN PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION: Anyone who visits this site and reads my articles knows that I had a strong emotional investment in this year’s presidential election.

I came of age in the 1960s. John F. Kennedy was my boyhood hero. I lived through the civil rights movement, the war in Vietnam, and the sexual revolution. I experienced The Beatles, Muhammad Ali, and so many other markers of that era.

At the height of “The Sixties,” the presidency of George W. Bush was unimaginable. None of us could have foreseen an administration that endorsed torture, advocated teaching “creationism” in the public schools, and repudiated the notion of a “Great Society” keyed to economic and social justice.

But there was another thought that was also unimaginable in the 1960s; that four decades later, the American people would elect an African-American with the strange-sounding name “Barack Obama” as president of the United States. It just didn’t seem possible.

Whatever the future brings, the American people have made a statement about our collective character. I woke up this morning feeling good about being an American.

Thomas Hauser
November 5, 2008



Thomas Hauser can be reached by email at thauser@rcn.com


Subscribe to feed Subscribe to feed
License/buy our content  |  Privacy policy  |  Terms & conditions  |  Copyright  |  Advertising guide  |  Site Map  |  Write for SecondsOut.com  |  SecondsOut Contacts  |  Contact Us

© 2000 - 2011 Knockout Entertainment Ltd & SecondsOut.com